Gili Trawagan upon arrival showed lots of temptations: fish laid out ready to be grilled, calm aquamarine waters, the promise of sea turtles, reef sharks, and stingrays on snorkel trips, and unfortunately I can’t take advantage of any of it. I’m sick, holed up in my (thankfully) AC hotel room, going through packs of tissues and local Tylenol.

Luckily when we arrived we slogged all the way to the northern tip of the island for a room,

and lucked out on a deal with this isolated, but sweet bungalow:
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