The scarecrows come in all forms, including one near my house which is essentially a tethered kite to a pole (not pictured, and now it's down, sorry...) It sails around all day long when there's enough wind. Great for the rice, bad for my surfing.
Sunday, March 1, 2009
Mature Rice
The scarecrows come in all forms, including one near my house which is essentially a tethered kite to a pole (not pictured, and now it's down, sorry...) It sails around all day long when there's enough wind. Great for the rice, bad for my surfing.
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
Balinese Cat Power
Saturday, February 21, 2009
2007 vs 2009 in Bangkok, about 40km distance
I thought I was being so thrifty buying a 2 year old rough guide to Thailand at a used book shop. But the thrift didn’t do me much good because my budget hotel room near the Bangkok airport was actually near the “old” airport, and about an hour away from the “new” airport. Having no way to find out where a cheap room was (internet cafes were already closed at that late hour at the airport) and needing a place to crash for 7 hours, I ended up being taken “under the wing” by a tout for my late, last night’s stay in Bangkok. Oh well, live and learn.
Thursday, February 19, 2009
Sailboat ride
Even though there wasn’t enough wind to actually sail, the excursion was infinitely quiet, just like our Captain Bob. He explained that his engine, unlike most around the island, has a muffler. He also attached his boat to buoys instead of dropping anchor all over. Worth the more premium price.
The boat had 3 Norwegian girls, and 3 extremely good looking and down to earth Brits. One of whom is working as a bodyguard in Iraq and was jokingly disappointed to hear that I worked on the Obama campaign (i.e. if we pull out of Iraq it’d affect his livelihood.)
Captain Bob is from Canada, therefore he could say more than just “one hour” and could explain a lot about the area and what we were seeing. He explained that a particular kind of Bird’s Nest sells for about a grand in China/Japan, so locals go to extreme lengths to collect them.
Take a look at the height of this spindly rope that goes up the side of the cliff.
When I was snorkeling I saw an enormous eel hiding in the niche of a rock. It was purple and had the diameter of a toaster oven (not a toaster, a toaster oven). I wanted to see how long it was, but was scared of provoking it in case it was electric. Captain Bob explained to me, once I surfaced, that the eels aren’t electric, but if they bite essentially they have to be decapitated to get their jaws to let go of your body. Glad I didn’t provoke it.
He did a few party tricks coming close to big boulders,
and he dropped us off at a cave where we could explore. (yep, the speck in blue below is me)
I was the only one who climbed in (probably due to my having reef shoes) and I felt like James Bond going to the bad guy’s hiding spot in the cave. Very cool.
A half an hour before sunset he steered the boat into a cove where we could watch with the ipod going in the background. I floated a bit in the water looking up at the cliffs and at the sun. Fantastic way to tie things up in Koh Phi Phi Don.
Captain Bob is from Canada, therefore he could say more than just “one hour” and could explain a lot about the area and what we were seeing. He explained that a particular kind of Bird’s Nest sells for about a grand in China/Japan, so locals go to extreme lengths to collect them.
When I was snorkeling I saw an enormous eel hiding in the niche of a rock. It was purple and had the diameter of a toaster oven (not a toaster, a toaster oven). I wanted to see how long it was, but was scared of provoking it in case it was electric. Captain Bob explained to me, once I surfaced, that the eels aren’t electric, but if they bite essentially they have to be decapitated to get their jaws to let go of your body. Glad I didn’t provoke it.
He did a few party tricks coming close to big boulders,
A half an hour before sunset he steered the boat into a cove where we could watch with the ipod going in the background. I floated a bit in the water looking up at the cliffs and at the sun. Fantastic way to tie things up in Koh Phi Phi Don.
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
Beachy Budget Day
Did a budget day just hanging in the beachy shade to save up for the fancy sailboat ride I’ll take on Thursday. In the evening they played the movie “The Beach” so I could figure out what all the hype was about. It looked like Mya Beach, minus the 40 longtail and powerboats. Oh- and the hotel room where Leo discovers the map looks eerily like the hotel road I stayed at near Kao San Road.
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
Longtail boat ride in Koh Phi Phi Don
Reluctantly abandoning Bangkok, I took a flight to Phuket and then hopped an easy boat ride to Koh Phi Phi Don. The allure is the promise of great snorkeling and kayaking.
I am staying in a budget hotel on the southern tip of the island with fantastic views and laughable amenities. It is far from the center of town- entailing a 30 minute walk over slippery shoreline rocks or a $6 boat ride into town (it’s only $3 if it’s more than 2 people- discrimination against single travelers!)
The hotel offers an excursion to a few of the islands surrounding Koh Phi Phi Don. The biggest draw is Mya Beach which is where they filmed the movie “The Beach.” So today 7 Germans and I clambered into a rickety longtail boat and we were off. The boats are called longtail because of the easily moveable propeller which is at the end of a long tube- I believe the idea being that they’re easier to steer and avoid smacking reef/rocks.
Our captain was mute except for the words “one hour” and dropped his anchor on all kinds of reef and rocks instead of mooring to the established buoys. This was evident in the water with all of the smashed coral, but it didn’t seem to affect the fish too much. There were so many kinds- plenty of Dorie’s friends, but no Nemo. There were quite a few barnacles (?) that looked like purple oyster-shaped “lips” wedged into the coral, and they would retract when one approached. Some of the fish looked like long skinny tubes, and some of them looked like the original inspiration for the fluorescent “OP” brand shirts that were popular in 1987.
In the evening I had dinner with 3 French guys whom I was surprised to discover watch 10x more American TV than I ever have. (i.e. J’adore Izze en Grey’s Anatomy!) It made me wonder if they are unusual for Frenchmen, or if all the Frenchmen I’ve met are hiding how much TV they watch from me!
I am staying in a budget hotel on the southern tip of the island with fantastic views and laughable amenities. It is far from the center of town- entailing a 30 minute walk over slippery shoreline rocks or a $6 boat ride into town (it’s only $3 if it’s more than 2 people- discrimination against single travelers!)
The hotel offers an excursion to a few of the islands surrounding Koh Phi Phi Don. The biggest draw is Mya Beach which is where they filmed the movie “The Beach.” So today 7 Germans and I clambered into a rickety longtail boat and we were off. The boats are called longtail because of the easily moveable propeller which is at the end of a long tube- I believe the idea being that they’re easier to steer and avoid smacking reef/rocks.
Our captain was mute except for the words “one hour” and dropped his anchor on all kinds of reef and rocks instead of mooring to the established buoys. This was evident in the water with all of the smashed coral, but it didn’t seem to affect the fish too much. There were so many kinds- plenty of Dorie’s friends, but no Nemo. There were quite a few barnacles (?) that looked like purple oyster-shaped “lips” wedged into the coral, and they would retract when one approached. Some of the fish looked like long skinny tubes, and some of them looked like the original inspiration for the fluorescent “OP” brand shirts that were popular in 1987.
In the evening I had dinner with 3 French guys whom I was surprised to discover watch 10x more American TV than I ever have. (i.e. J’adore Izze en Grey’s Anatomy!) It made me wonder if they are unusual for Frenchmen, or if all the Frenchmen I’ve met are hiding how much TV they watch from me!
Sunday, February 15, 2009
My luckiest day in ages. AGES!
This morning I needed to find a quick bite before heading into the National Museum. So I asked for chicken, spring roll, & banana+coconut fritters, but it was the carrot fritter that she threw in at the end for free that was the best. Just my luck.

Then once I was in the museum a creepy dude who had once studied at U Neb started to follow me, but then I got him off the trail. Again, lucky me.
This here is an elephant saddle that was once used by royalty. It’s inlaid with intricate mother of pearl, gold, and oh yes there’s the thermos of coffee behind it.
This is a spectacularly ornate funeral chariot- you can see how huge it is by comparing it to the standing fan propped up next to it.
They recently increased the entry free and evidently paid people with teeny tiny fingers to hand paste on the new price.
After the museum I went to the Tourist info center to see about attending a dance performance. Unfortunately all of the tickets were out of my budget and really far away. So I decided to wander. I went to the pier, was weighing a boat ride, but the little boat looked so rickety, and it was so hot out, I bailed. I had a hunch to go back to the mall where I had seen a sign for a modern art center. I wasn’t sure if it was a dance center or whatnot, but I figured it was worth checking out that area again at least.
It was a huge surprise- it was a FANTASTIC modern art center. I was practically the only visitor. It opened, after years of political delays, just 5 months ago. http://www.bacc.or.th/en/aboutus.html The inside looks like it was inspired by the NY Guggenheim:
They had a contemporary prints exhibition featuring artists from all over Asia: 

One one of the paths between floors featured sculpture which made me feel like I was walking through huge stems of black coral:
The colors in this painting were so different than what I'm used to seeing in river scenes. Look at how the colors reflect in the dog's fur



This piece appealed to me because the artist asked kids to make masks of what they think a Bangkok kid looks like. They were all on the wall behind the artist's rendition of what a Bangkokian (? Maybe Bangkokite? Bangkok citizen) looks like:


This is a copy of a poster that was used in years of protests demanding an art center next to the MBK Mall. As part of the protests they strung thousands of banners made by artists & regular citizens into the form of a long snake through the streets of Bangkok. Just a portion of those original banners were displayed on the floor:

Then on the bus home I saw a dance performance in progress through the bus window. We were only a few blocks from my hotel so I hopped off, wandered in, paid my $1.25 entry fee and saw tons of cute kids both dressed up to perform as well as hanging off the stage, hometown style. Just my lucky day.



Then once I was in the museum a creepy dude who had once studied at U Neb started to follow me, but then I got him off the trail. Again, lucky me.
This here is an elephant saddle that was once used by royalty. It’s inlaid with intricate mother of pearl, gold, and oh yes there’s the thermos of coffee behind it.
This is a spectacularly ornate funeral chariot- you can see how huge it is by comparing it to the standing fan propped up next to it.
They recently increased the entry free and evidently paid people with teeny tiny fingers to hand paste on the new price.
After the museum I went to the Tourist info center to see about attending a dance performance. Unfortunately all of the tickets were out of my budget and really far away. So I decided to wander. I went to the pier, was weighing a boat ride, but the little boat looked so rickety, and it was so hot out, I bailed. I had a hunch to go back to the mall where I had seen a sign for a modern art center. I wasn’t sure if it was a dance center or whatnot, but I figured it was worth checking out that area again at least. It was a huge surprise- it was a FANTASTIC modern art center. I was practically the only visitor. It opened, after years of political delays, just 5 months ago. http://www.bacc.or.th/en/aboutus.html The inside looks like it was inspired by the NY Guggenheim:
They had a contemporary prints exhibition featuring artists from all over Asia: 

One one of the paths between floors featured sculpture which made me feel like I was walking through huge stems of black coral:

The colors in this painting were so different than what I'm used to seeing in river scenes. Look at how the colors reflect in the dog's fur



This piece appealed to me because the artist asked kids to make masks of what they think a Bangkok kid looks like. They were all on the wall behind the artist's rendition of what a Bangkokian (? Maybe Bangkokite? Bangkok citizen) looks like:


This is a copy of a poster that was used in years of protests demanding an art center next to the MBK Mall. As part of the protests they strung thousands of banners made by artists & regular citizens into the form of a long snake through the streets of Bangkok. Just a portion of those original banners were displayed on the floor:


Then on the bus home I saw a dance performance in progress through the bus window. We were only a few blocks from my hotel so I hopped off, wandered in, paid my $1.25 entry fee and saw tons of cute kids both dressed up to perform as well as hanging off the stage, hometown style. Just my lucky day.


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